I make my manner house previous the northeast bay of Panormos, which overlooks an outcrop of rock moderately cosmically known as Planitis, topped with the stays of the Mycenaean tomb of Agia Thekla. In every single place hangs that heavy Tinian scent of fleabane. Salt and olive, and the change of season. Skylarks rise from the sharp purple bramble spreading down the sheer cliff, and the ocean slowly evaporates into cerulean. Not for the primary time I feel that this explicit pocket of the Cyclades is probably the most romantic in the entire of Greece. This islet of swirling quartz topped by a miniature temple. To the east, a tiny chapel clinging to the sting of the mainland—a wick burning in its window in a saucer of oil—over the abandoned cove of Agia Thalassa, the place the sand glows silver, like mercury. Like a transfiguration. And the row of marine pines earlier than the surf, their needles bleached yellow, struggling to face tall in opposition to the exhausting flat blade of the wind as they’ve for millennia.
The place to remain
Tinos ANM sits on a cliff with a view of the island of Planitis. Six bedrooms are organized round a very effective pool. The surface eating room is the loveliest solar entice, and at night time huge home windows within the largest bed room catch the lulling beat of a distant lighthouse.
From about $12,500 per week
Tinos AND is a hamlet of seven homes (from one to a few bedrooms), all quietly designed within the stone of the island’s Byzantine-era farms and tiered right into a hill with gardens, little freshwater swimming pools, luminous views of 16 islands, and knock-out linen-mad rooms.
From about $1,920 per week; each this and Tinos ANM, above, can be found by way of fivestargreece.com
A wildly profitable conversion of a former bishop’s palace, Xinara Home defines the small however grand village of Xinara. Sleeping as much as 13, the place is a jewel field, from the Gilbert & George artwork to the jade pool scooped like an egg out of the rocks. Elegant, peaceable, and indulgent.
From about $4,100 per week for the principle home; xinarahouse.com
Eat and drink
Tinos has the perfect meals within the Cyclades, and the island wines, from sensible T-Oinos to the incredible pure choices from Domaine de Kalathas, are additionally superlative, with the stone and salt of the terroir drawn deep into the grape. Raki (comprised of grape stems and skins) can also be particularly good right here—strive any slug supplied from a plastic bottle. In Panormos Bay, order mussels with coriander at Maistros and sardines baked with raisins at Maru. In Pyrgos, Athmar is the place for morning yogurt with native walnuts and subject honey—and margaritas with thyme syrup. Isternia’s To Thalassaki serves clams steamed with ouzo and saffron, and onions baked with lemon. (Go early to swim first within the tiny bay.) O Ntinos in Giannaki Bay has the perfect sundown view, plus almond honey and vanilla ice cream. At Tarsanas in Chora, strive the fried cheese. And order any of the “spoon sweets” within the roadside cafés—a dollop of selfmade protect (quince, bitter cherries) is ideal with a brief black espresso.
This text appeared within the April 2022 problem of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the journal right here.